Tetovo is not for everyone. While the city is home to one of the most beautiful mosques that I have seen so far, it offers very little on top of that to justify a day trip from Skopje. I enjoyed my time there, and have no regrets about the visit, however, compared to some other destinations I visited during this longer trip, I have to admit that it offers a bit less to most travellers. If you are not sure whether it is for you or not, join me now to see what Tetovo offers to its visitors, so that you can make up your own mind about it.
My day in Tetovo began early, following a short bus ride from Skopje. While the city used to have a few decent options for enthusiasts of brutalist architecture, this does not seem to be the case anymore. What little remains is nothing noteworthy. There is this post office that still stands today, but due to the trees it is impossible to get a good photograph of it from any angle.
While Yugoslav architecture may be somewhat eroded, surprisingly, some earlier buildings remain to this day. You can find houses like this that were built in early 20th century in the center of Tetovo quite easily.
What is really worth a note is the geographical position of this sleepy little town. You can see the start of Sharr mountains from here, and can even begin hiking one of the many trails these green jewels of the region has starting in Tetovo.
If you are interested in Orthodox imagery, it would not hurt to pay a visit to Ss. Cyril & Methodius Cathedral. It seems to be pretty new, at least to my eyes, and thus the icons and the like you will find here are a bit more vibrant than usual. Priests seemed extra friendly, and the courtyard provided a much necessary respite from the heat outside.
Eventually, I remembered why I came to Tetovo in the first place, to see two interesting pieces of Islamic architecture the city has to offer. On my way to these two spots, I was once again greeted by some decent views of the surrounding Sharr mountains.
Arabati Baba Tekke is one of these two spots that I wanted to check out in Tetovo. It is a Bektashi shrine that has some lovely folks buzzing around. They seemed to be preparing for something, though I did not stick around long enough to find out what that may be.
This is a rather large complex, with a few cemeteries, some mosques, and a few outside sitting arrangements like this one. The wood carvings here were much unexpected in the best way possible, though I wish I had the time to check out what went on inside the buildings as well, as I had a hunch that they too had some intricate design elements on the interior.
This whole area was quite serene and an overall joy to wonder around. It was very well kept, and there was even a hint of a hearty meal that was being prepared somewhere nearby.
This tiny building with a blue façade seemed to be the highlight of this holy site, but I could not figure out what it was. There was not a way to enter it out in the open, so I assumed it must have been reserved for the residents of this complex. Quite satisfied with what I have seen so far, I hurriedly made my way to the main reason I came to Tetovo, it’s gorgeous Colourful Mosque!
Tetovo’s Colourful Mosque is pretty unique to say the least. You understand that from the get-go. As you come near this beautiful landmark, you will realize that its walls are no ordinary walls, but once empty canvases that some skilled artists worked on. This well decorated exterior is only a glimpse into what awaits you on the inside.
It is difficult to put into words just how beautiful the Colourful Mosque is. While I can go on about some details that caught my eyes here and there, I think it is more appropriate to just say that when I was there for just a few minutes, I ran into people all the way from Indonesia and Brazil, people who came all this way “just to see” this mosque as some would claim.
This is not a massive mosque; and it is not its size that is captivating one’s eyes. It is the amount of effort went into turning what is usually a very empty interior of a mosque to what is essentially an art gallery. You can find depictions of some nature and buildings decorating every single crevice this mosque has, which is usually pretty rare.
Just as the mosque itself, its courtyard is pretty small as well. It had a hard time holding all the tourists that were coming, and since I did not see foreigners anywhere else in Tetovo, this sure was an interesting sight to see.
At this point, it was high time to get back home. Sun was all the way up there, I was pretty hungry, and quite unsure about the schedules of buses going towards Skopje.
To make sure I did not take the bus with an empty stomach, I enjoyed some spinach and cheese burek from the legendary Burektore Reklama. While I did have better burek in Kosovo and Serbia, I have to say, Macedonia’s best burek just may be being served here! It was fresh, flaky, and rather crispy. The spinach to cheese ratio was perfect, and the service was friendly. You cannot ask for much more from a proper Balkan bakery!
By now, it should be clear whether Tetovo is worth a day trip for you or not. You will enjoy one of the quirkiest mosques out there and eat one of the best bureks Macedonia has to offer. Other than that, however, you will mostly be wondering around a rather sleepy town, occasionally seeing a few pretty sights. If this is worth a short bus ride from Skopje for you, you should put Tetovo on your Macedonian itinerary right away!